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The facts about the face roller beauty trend

A hand holding out a face roller to a cat.
Was 2020 the year you got a face roller? Here's what two dermatologists have to say.()

If you've never seen a face roller before, size and design-wise they look like something a small animal (like a cat or a possum) might use to paint a house.

Face rollers — tagged over 46,000 times on Instagram — are often made with gemstones such as jade, amethyst or rose quartz, and come with claims of being able to depuff the face and promote circulation and lymphatic drainage.

But do they? ABC Everyday spoke to two dermatologists about the effectiveness and risks of using face rollers.

How do face rollers work?

Jade and quartz are stones that are cool to touch even at room temperature.

When these stones are rolled on the face, it massages with a cooling effect. (Sometimes people place their face rollers in the fridge for maximum impact.)

Sellers of face rollers claim they promote circulation and lymphatic drainage; reduce inflammation, puffiness, and redness; and relieve stress and make you feel good.

How effective are they?

According to Dr Saxon Smith, a dermatologist in Gosford and Sydney, there's no clinical evidence to show face rollers do what they promise.

He concedes they offer a cooling sensation and may bring relief to people (for example, on a hot day or during menopausal hot flushes), but that's mainly it.

"It's a short-term solution with no curative benefit over time," he says.

However, Dr Adam Sheridan, a dermatologist in Melbourne, believes there's something to be said for the cooling massage of the face.

"The number one benefit is there's increased attention and insight into your skin and mood during the rolling and massaging, which sounds a bit airy fairy, but maybe then there are some flow-on benefits where people start to behave differently."

"For example, they might start moisturising, applying sun protection, or treating their acne."

Dr Sheridan also believes there is a transient improvement in the feel of one's skin from the massage, even if there is no clinical evidence to support this.

"Patients who use face rollers tell us that using a face roller improves their mood because it makes them more relaxed and less anxious."

On this point Dr Smith is on the same page: "Anything that makes you feel good, makes you feel good."

What are the risks?

Don't use a face roller within 48 hours of having botox or filler injections, because there's a risk of massaging the botox into unintended areas or shifting the shape of your filler, says Dr Sheridan.

In COVID times, it's also worth noting you should never use someone else's face roller, because cold surfaces allow the virus to remain, he adds.

What face roller should I get?

The price of face rollers varies widely from $6 for mini ones at department stores to upwards of $100 at beauty retailers.

Given there's no scientific evidence to prove the benefit of face rollers, it would appear that anything made of a smooth cool-to-touch stone (such as jade or quartz) would have a similar cooling effect regardless of price point.

However, those with a nickel allergy should be careful when considering buying a face roller at the lower end of the price spectrum — some of the cheaper face rollers may be held together with nickel, says Dr Smith.

If you want something proven to be effective

The cooling sensation from rolling gemstones on your face can also be achieved by keeping your moisturiser in the fridge and applying it to your face cold, says Dr Smith.

This article contains general information only. You should consider obtaining independent professional advice in relation to your particular circumstances.

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